Glossary of Terms

aasu
Warping drum, used to lay the length of the warp on the loom.
aggipetagadi
Matchbox check, check woven in the shape of matchbox.
alizarine
Red colour extracted from a coal tar derivative
anar
Yellow colour extracted from rind of pomagrenate
azo free chemical dye
Environment friendly chemical dyes
buta
Small motifs woven on the surface of the fabric
cotton
Fibre from cotton plant
count
A number given to define thickness of yarn used in weaving
DAMA
Dastkar Andhra Marketing Association
dãram
Term for 'yarn' in Telugu. Also, the name of our handloom store in Hyderabad.
denting
Drawing yarn through dents
dobby
An extra warp technique used for weaving patterns in the borders
eco friendly chemical dye
Chemical dye categories like reactive and vat dyes, which are environment friendly.
frame loom
Type of a loom, which is fixed to a frame and fitted onto the ground.
handblock printed
Printing done by hand with wooden blocks
handloom
A loom operated manually
handloom fabric
Cloth woven on a handloom
handloom sarees
Sarees woven on pit looms or frame looms
handwoven
Fabric woven on a loom by hand without electricity
HWCS
Handloom Weavers’ Co-operative Society
indigo
Blue dye extracted from indigo plant
IWG
Independent Weaver Group
jamdani
An extra weft weaving technique to weave motifs
jamulu
Telugu term for two threads in a dent
kalamkari
A hand block printing technique and style which is done in Machilipatnam area of Krishna district of Andhra Pradesh
khadi
Fabric woven by hand using hand spun yarn
kuppadam
Interlock weave using three shuttles and is famous for weaving solid borders and body
loom
The instrument used for interlacement of two sets of yarn – the warp and the weft
mangalagiri fabric
Fabric named after Mangalagiri town in Guntur district where it was first woven in 60’s count yarn in warp and 40’s count yarn in weft
missing dent
Texture created by yarn missing in a dent (Dent is the gap between two reed wires)
missing stripe
Yarn missing in a dent in a regular pattern
missing weave
Weft yarn missing regularly or at intervals while weaving a fabric
mordant
Chemical substance that helps fix colour to the fibre
mugha thread
Special silk yarn from Assam
natural dye
Dye extracted from naturally grown materials
natural dyed
Dyeing carried out with natural dye materials
pallu
End piece in a saree
peku pogulu
Weft threads referred to as 'picks' in english
petu
Term for dobby technique in Telugu. It is an extra weft technique used to weave pattern in the border of sarees or dhotis traditionally
pit loom
Type of a loom with a pit with the pedals located in the pit for the feet to operate the loom
podugu pogulu
Warp threads referred to as 'ends' in english
pre shrunk
Shrinking before use for correct measurement
random tie and dye
Random tie and dye on the yarn before it is woven
reactive dye
Environment friendly chemical dyes (also called azo free chemical dyes)
reed
Warp guide
running blouse
Blouse piece woven as an extension to the saree
shot colour
Different coloured warp and weft, woven in a fabric creating a lustrous effect.
shuttle
Instrument made out of wood used to carry the weft yarn
sixties x forties
60's x 40's (Warp x weft), counts used in weaving Mangalagiri fabric.
street sizing
Applying starch on stretched yarn, which is carried out by the weavers or by skilled groups in the village. Typically, depending on the warp length, three to four persons are required to carry out sizing. After application of the sizing paste (starch) onto the stretched yarn, special brushes are used to spread and dry the starch on the yarn. Since this activity is carried out on the street, this is referred to as 'street sizing'.
two / sixties
2 / 60's, Count of yarn, used mostly to weave different varieties of fabrics on frame looms.
vat dye
A category of chemical dyes
warp
Yarn laid lengthwise on a loom
weft bands
Blocks of colour across the width (Weft is the yarn which passes across the fabric width)
weft stripes
Stripes running across the width of the weave (Weft is the yarn which passes across the fabric width)
yardage
Running fabric
zari
Shiny metallic yarn used mostly for patterns in dobby technique