Glossary of Terms

2/60's, Count of yarn, used mostly to weave different varieties of fabrics on frame looms.
60's x 40's
60's x 40's (Warp x weft), counts used in weaving Mangalagiri fabric.
Warping drum, used to lay the length of the warp on the loom.
aggipetta gadi
Matchbox check, check woven in the shape of matchbox.
Red colour extracted from a coal tar derivative, an organic chemical compound.
Red colour extracted from a coal tar derivative
Yellow colour extracted from rind of pomagrenate
azo free chemical dye
Environment friendly chemical dyes
azo free dye
Environment friendly chemical dyes
Small motifs woven on the surface of the fabric
Fibre from cotton plant
A number given to define thickness of yarn used in weaving
Dastkar Andhra Marketing Association
Term for 'yarn' in Telugu. Also, the name of our handloom store in Hyderabad.
Drawing yarn through dents
An extra warp technique used for weaving patterns in the borders
eco friendly chemical dye
Chemical dye categories like reactive and vat dyes, which are environment friendly.
frame loom
Type of a loom, which is fixed to a frame and fitted onto the ground.
handblock printed
Printing done by hand with wooden blocks
A loom operated manually
handloom fabric
Cloth woven on a handloom
handloom sarees
Sarees woven on pit looms or frame looms
Fabric woven on a loom by hand without electricity
Handloom Weavers’ Co-operative Society
Blue dye extracted from indigo plant
Independent Weaver Group
An extra weft weaving technique to weave motifs
Telugu term for two threads in a dent
A hand block printing technique and style which is done in Machilipatnam area of Krishna district of Andhra Pradesh
Fabric woven by hand using hand spun yarn
Kora refers to unbleached & undyed shade of the yarn
Interlock weave using three shuttles and is famous for weaving solid borders and body
The instrument used for interlacement of two sets of yarn – the warp and the weft
a town in Guntur district, the fabric woven in the district of Guntur is named after the town mangalagiri
mangalagiri fabric
Fabric named after Mangalagiri town in Guntur district where it was first woven in 60’s count yarn in warp and 40’s count yarn in weft
missing dent
Texture created by yarn missing in a dent (Dent is the gap between two reed wires)
missing stripe
Yarn missing in a dent in a regular pattern
missing weave
Weft yarn missing regularly or at intervals while weaving a fabric
Chemical substance that helps fix colour to the fibre
mugha thread
Special silk yarn from Assam
natural dye
Dye extracted from naturally grown materials
natural dyed
Dyeing carried out with natural dye materials
End piece in a saree
peka pogulu
Weft threads referred to as 'picks' in english
Term for dobby technique in Telugu. It is an extra weft technique used to weave pattern in the border of sarees or dhotis traditionally
pit loom
Type of a loom with a pit with the pedals located in the pit for the feet to operate the loom
podugu pogulu
Warp threads referred to as 'ends' in english
pre shrunk
Shrinking before use for correct measurement
random tie and dye
Random tie and dye on the yarn before it is woven
reactive dye
Environment friendly chemical dyes (also called azo free chemical dyes)
Warp guide
running blouse
Blouse piece woven as an extension to the saree
shot colour
Different coloured warp and weft, woven in a fabric creating a lustrous effect.
Instrument made out of wood used to carry the weft yarn
street sizing
Applying starch on stretched yarn, which is carried out by the weavers or by skilled groups in the village. Typically, depending on the warp length, three to four persons are required to carry out sizing. After application of the sizing paste (starch) onto the stretched yarn, special brushes are used to spread and dry the starch on the yarn. Since this activity is carried out on the street, this is referred to as 'street sizing'.
2/60's, Count of yarn, used mostly to weave different varieties of fabrics on frame looms.
vat dye
A category of chemical dyes
Yarn laid lengthwise on a loom
weft bands
Blocks of colour across the width (Weft is the yarn which passes across the fabric width)
weft stripes
Stripes running across the width of the weave (Weft is the yarn which passes across the fabric width)
Running fabric
Shiny metallic yarn used mostly for patterns in dobby technique